Nothing too formal, but I was thinking the community could jot down some key topics that will help new players get better faster. Here's a couple--

Tip #1: Pay attention to what your opponent casts

If they cast a building, did they get domain from it right away? If not, then you know they have a construction site somewhere and are trying to capture a flux well. Did they cast a creature? How fast can it move and see? Where have they likely moved it? Have they moved it yet this round? These are all things you should think about in the early game before you go venturing out into the darkness with your only creature.

Tip #2: Attack order

Always make your most important attacks first. If you get to go first this round, your opponent may have just drawn a creature control card, and if you don't attack now, you won't get a chance to do it later. In multi-creature battles, plan ahead to make sure you can do maximum damage with the creatures you have. Review movements speeds and creature positions before jumping into anything. Have a low movement creature that you can attack with? Start with that one so that other creatures can't evade it. Have one really strong creature in your arsenal? Consider giving it priority in the fray in case your opponent is sitting on an ascent, lysis, manipulation, possession, entangle, icy encasement etc. etc. etc.

I have a few things I want to hear input from others about.

How many creatures and buildings are getting put into a deck?

How much of the deck is devoted to answer cards?

How well situational cards are
for example, i'm running a few of the MF ones to good effect, 1 rune of shielding 2 flash powders and 2-3 horns to hide, to get past obelisk, null vision based abilities, and stiffel small but annoying hitters like cricket and falcon respectivly.

For at least one of your questions: I've been upping my creature ratio considerably. Now in a 40 card deck, I'm using about 20 creatures. Since doing that, it's helped tremendously. I'm up to about 10 buildings and 10 spells/enchantments.

_________________
-Minds

Tip #3: Deckbuilding -- Sunyaku's perspective

I approach deckbuilding in TFW with the same fundamental principals as I would in MTG. 30-50% creatures, 20-25% buildings, and the rest spells/enchantments. It is important to remember that although they may offer neat gameplay dynamics, spells and enchantments will never win a game for you on their own. Without creatures you can't see new areas of the board, and in this game, what you don't know WILL kill you... And if you don't have buildings that give you the proper domain, you won't have any creatures.

Depending on the nature of the deck, I run a minimum of 15 creatures, up to a maximum around 25 in a standard 40 card deck. In single domain decks, I tend to have fewer buildings... around 8. This generally includes 3 domain/base buildings, 3 domain/sight buildings, and 2 base/low cost buildings. If you are playing with more than a few tier 3 domain cards, you'll want to make sure you have plenty of buildings that give you domain. Conversely, if you don't have high domain requirements, you may want more low cost/sight buildings.

In multi-domain decks, I generally have 9-12 buildings... as your domain requirements change... but this will also depend on the availability of cards that give you the domains you need. In multi-domain decks I also pay close attention to the domain requirements of the cards that go into the deck. If you are playing with two domains, it will take a lot of effort to get 3 domain in BOTH the domains you're playing with... but you have a few options here.

Option 1: Main domain and splash. If most of your tier 3 domain cards are of one domain, eliminate those of the other domain, and adjust your buildings so that you will have more domain of the 'main' chosen domain. You'll also want to make sure that most of the card in the domain you are "splashing" are not tier 2 domain, as this may become problematic. When you splash a domain, most of the cards should require only one domain. If this is not an option, you may need to slightly adjust the buildings you are playing with.

Option 2: Balanced domains. Especially in limited play, I have been successful by cutting all tier 3 domain cards out of the deck completely (granted, what you do depends on the resources available). I'll run the two domains that had the most tier one and tier 2 domain creatures, and fill in any useful spells that I can. It is not much more work to get to tier 2 domain in both domains than it is to get to tier 3 domain in one domain.

Option 3: Grind towards domain prowess. In constructed play, you can probably afford to pump your deck full of cards that give you domain bonuses, and you won't be limited by the domain requirements I've mentioned above. However, I do not recommend this strategy, as I think it makes you particularly vulnerable to any rush deck.

Updated note-- Now that creatures can be played next to any base building, this offers much greater flexibility with multi-domain decks. For example, if you have enough 'bonus' domain cards available, you may not need to put in buildings that give you a domain that you are 'splashing'.

Tip #4: RTFC!

Read the *ahem* friendly cards! If you don't know how everything on the board interacts, you'll be caught by surpise sooner or later. Furthermore, if your opponent casts something that you can not yet see on the board, you have to read the card (from their action box) on THAT turn or you may not get another chance before it's too late!

In TFW, knowledge and vision are power.

Tip #5: Once You Have an Advantage, KEEP IT!

This has happened to most players... you work hard to get ahead, and then somehow your opponent comes back to win. When I say "ahead", I mean you have control of more flux wells than your opponent. It's not always possible to prevent your opponent from coming back to win, but there are ways to minimize this possibility. This is also useful information for those trying to come back to win... as you don't want to fall into the pitfalls I describe. Here are a few:

Concept A: Know what's on the board.

Don't get any closer to your opponent's buildings or creatures than you need to, but be aware of their efforts to capture another flux well, or remove your control of a flux well. You don't want to make your creatures into targets for spells in your opponent's limited sight range. Be wary of any creatures your opponent controls that have high vision. This may allow them to plant buildings in odd places that you might not think to look.

Concept B: Know Your Opponent.

Have you played them before? Do you know what cards they might be saving to take out one of your buildings to stop your glory gain? Consider the domain they're playing. Some have more than others, but every domain has sneaky ways of removing a player's flux advantage. Save up enough flux so that you can build instantly build at least one more building in a controlled area if you need to. If you have a solid lock with Concept A (above) you should know any and all threats your opponent can pose on the board... so position creatures and save cards accordingly. If you have lots of extra flux and buildings that are not actually "on" a flux well, you may want to consider building a building on top of the flux well to avoid cards like Desolation Totem and Line Shift (for example).

Concept C: Reactionary Play -- To Contain and Stifle

As you take a greater and greater lead both on the board, and in the glory tally, play becomes increasingly reactionary.. It's important that you don't get too aggressive with your new found lead. Don't move your creatures unnecessarily... but you need to strike a balance between vision, defending your areas, or containing your opponent with a blockade of creatures, depending on your situation. If you know your opponent is trapped in an area due to terrain obstacles, park your creatures at a comfortable distance outside that area and they'll be stifled for the rest of the game. This isn't an RTS. You don't have to kill all their buildings to win. In fact, you're more likely to lose if you try to eradicate an opponent that you don't need to. If you have control of three flux wells and a solid lead on the board (in terms of creatures), just sit back, relax, and watch your opponent's moves as carefully as you should have been all game.

Concept D: When You KNOW You Are In Control

You don't have to do anything but pass. - If you have initiative, and you know your opponent doesn't have any secret buildings brewing anywhere, just pass. Save flux, save cards to deal with emergency situations. If they do something, THEN react. If your opponent gets initiative and passes to try to manipulate the order of actions on the board, just pass as well. You'll gain two more glory. If there are unclaimed flux wells on the board, save up to capture those as well, to tighten your grip on victory. Just don't violate Concepts A,B, and C in the process. You still need to contain your opponent and maintain your vision. If you don't have an extra creature to run to the other side of the board right now, don't do it. You may give your opponent an opportunity to escape their containment.

Concept E: Special Situations

Everything discussed in this tip is guiding principle...you must apply it to your situation as best you can. For example, if you are in control 3 flux wells to 2, but your opponent has a lead on the board (more/better creatures), then you need to play tight defense. Don't worry about superior vision or blockades. Defend your buildings at all cost. If you don't know which direction the primary attack will be coming from, you may not want to play all your creatures. It may be necessary to keep one or two in your hand and play them wherever they are needed.

So good luck Wilding, and don't ever lose the lead again!

All good tips, and coming from a respected player on the scene. Nice work.

If you find time, think you could write a similar article on the popular deck themes to give new players ideas for working the new decks around, or the common combos/synergies that people tend to build around? That article would also be of great help to many I'd think.

[EDIT = "saving face"]